For R & Q, judging the age of a piece of jewelry, besides looking at the cut of the gem (such as Old Mine Cut), the second most important thing is to look at its Setting Technique.
The setting method of jewelry is like a living fossil of the times. Once a certain setting method becomes popular, it becomes the label of that era.
1. Bezel Setting and Tube Setting
This is the oldest and strongest setting method in jewelry history.
- Principle: Wrap the waist of the gem completely with a circle of metal rim.
Era Imprint
- Georgian Era (1714-1830): Almost all gems used full bezel setting, because the cutting precision was not high at that time, and full bezel setting could cover the shape defects of the gem.
- Modern (Tube Setting): Now bezel setting mostly uses tube setting, the metal edge is pushed towards the gem, and the lines are simpler and more modern.
Picking Up Leaks Point: If you see a ring from the early 19th century, but it uses modern prong setting, it is likely a modification or remake.
2. Prong Setting: Victorian Romance
This is the most common setting method in modern times. Use tiny metal claws (usually 4 or 6 claws) to hold the gem.
- History: Prong setting technology truly became popular in the Victorian Era (1837-1901). Industrial products such as trains and cars at that time made people need stronger jewelry.
- Purpose: Prong setting can expose the gem to the greatest extent, allowing light to enter from all angles, increasing fire.
- Dating Tips: Pay attention to the shape of the claws. Victorian claws are often relatively stout; by the Edwardian era, claws became as slender and exquisite as lace (Filigree).
3. Channel Setting: Art Deco Declaration
This is one of the iconic setting methods of Art Deco style.
- Principle: Gems are set in metal grooves (channels), without using any claws. Gems are closely connected to each other.
- Era Imprint: Reached its peak in the Art Deco (1920-1930s) period. Because it perfectly reflects the geometric lines and fluidity pursued by decorative arts.
- Modern Application: Now commonly used for diamond Eternity Bands.
4. Pavé Setting: Ultimate Sparkle
This word comes from French, meaning “paving”.
- Principle: Set a large number of tiny gems (or melee diamonds/rhinestones) side by side, the metal at the bottom is almost completely covered, the purpose is to create an ultimate sparkling effect where the whole piece is diamonds.
- Era Imprint: Although there were prototypes in the Baroque period, modern pavé technology was only popularized on a large scale after the 1980s.
Picking Up Leaks Warning: If you see an “antique” claiming to be from the 1950s, but uses modern Micro Pavé technology, please be vigilant, it may be a “Retro/Reproduction” product.
5. Invisible Setting: Cartier’s Masterpiece
This is recognized as one of the most difficult crafts in the jewelry world.
- Principle: The bottom of the gem is precisely cut with grooves, and then snapped onto the metal skeleton, no metal prongs can be seen from the surface at all.
- Era Imprint: Patented by Cartier in the 1930s. If you see an old piece of jewelry using invisible setting that is not Cartier, it is likely a product of high-end custom workshops of that time.
Mastering these setting codes, you are no longer an outsider watching the fun. In the flea market, you can be like Q, easily determine the true age of this treasure through a prong under a magnifying glass.
