In the genealogy of European antique silver, Russian Silver is a unique anomaly.
While the British and French argued that only the original color of silver was supreme, Russian craftsmen overturned the palette onto their silverware. Using Cloisonné Enamel, they painted incredibly intricate floral, geometric, and fairy-tale patterns onto the silver body.
This style, known as the “Russian Style,” revived the aesthetics of the Muscovite period—passionate, rich, like a fire lit during a long Siberian winter.
The Core Technique: Cloisonné
The soul of Russian enamel silver lies in Cloisonné.
Craftsmen first outline the pattern on the silver body using extremely fine twisted gold or silver wires (Filigree)—much like the lines of a coloring book. Then, they fill these tiny metal compartments with enamel glazes of different colors, before finally firing and polishing them.
Reading the Marks: 84 & The Lady’s Head
The Russian hallmark system is completely different from the British or French. It didn’t use the millesimal system (like 925), but the Zolotnik unit introduced by Peter the Great.
1. The Numbers: 84
This is the most common Russian silver standard.
- 84: Equivalent to 875/1000 purity. Standard for most Russian silverware.
- 88: Equivalent to 916.6/1000 purity. Often used for higher-end enamel pieces, as higher purity silver bonds better with enamel glass.
2. The Symbol: Kokoshnik
After 1896, Russia introduced a new national assay mark—a female profile wearing the traditional Russian fan-shaped headdress (Kokoshnik).
- Head facing Left (1896-1908): Early mark.
- Head facing Right (1908-1917): Late mark, until the October Revolution ended the golden age of Imperial silver.
The Titans: Fabergé & Rückert
Mention Russian silver, and you can’t skip Peter Carl Fabergé. But he was often more of a “general contractor.” Many enamel pieces bearing the Fabergé mark were actually made by another master—Feodor Rückert.
- Feodor Rückert: The magician of color. If you see dreamy, watercolor-like textures achieved through “Shaded Enamel,” even if it bears a Fabergé mark, it is likely Rückert’s work.
- Khlebnikov & Ovchinnikov: Besides Fabergé, these two were the pillars of the Moscow School and also official suppliers to the Tsar.
Collecting Advice
Russian enamel silver commands extremely high prices in the international market, and fakes (especially modern reproductions from Eastern Europe) are rampant. Tips for beginners:
- Check the Color: Old enamel colors are usually grounded and have depth; fakes often look too bright and have a grassy, glassy shine.
- Check the Wire: The filigree in masterworks is even, smooth, and continuous; in fakes, it’s often messy or broken.
- Start Small: Starting with a small Salt Cellar or Enamel Spoon is a good choice.
In those days gone by, these silversmiths tried to seal the garden of spring onto silver forever.
📚 Further Reading
- Khalili Collection of Enamels of the World (Wikipedia) - The source of the magnificent Kovsh in this article.
- Russian Silver Hallmarks Guide (SilverCollection.it) - For more makers and marks.
